Dynamat
it's used in cars mostly. one guy used it in his bowling ally so the sound wouldn't travel into the bar area. couldn't hear a single pin or bowling ball even when it's quite in the place. stuff is amazing.
Sound, Sound, Sound
Re: Sound, Sound, Sound
i have Dynamat in my truck, but for the size of a room that is going to be super expensive. stuff is amazing though.
50' to a neighbor is very good, with some foam, carpet on the wall, etc you should be fine before 9pm or whenever your local ordinance is. look them up, its important to know. its 55Db(A) where i live in residential.
but you know, more so then anything else. go meet and greet your neighbors, talk to them, maybe they are musicians too, maybe they dont care, maybe they are days sleepers, etc
50' to a neighbor is very good, with some foam, carpet on the wall, etc you should be fine before 9pm or whenever your local ordinance is. look them up, its important to know. its 55Db(A) where i live in residential.
but you know, more so then anything else. go meet and greet your neighbors, talk to them, maybe they are musicians too, maybe they dont care, maybe they are days sleepers, etc
Re: Sound, Sound, Sound
Kinda figured the dynamat would be a bit pricey. Amazing how it even cuts down on the low end. Bass hardly gets by that stuff. When my parents furnished our basement they used cork for the entire room. You could still here me practicing. This was over 20 years ago. Maybe cork and something else. As long as you furnish the room it won't be so pricey.
Re: Sound, Sound, Sound
its always useful to watch a couple videos showing you
how its done:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bf5syq09qa0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-gpqY89 ... re=related
how its done:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bf5syq09qa0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-gpqY89 ... re=related
Re: Sound, Sound, Sound
Hey everybody --
Anyone know anything about this?
Audimute
Peacemaker 3.2mm Sound Insulation Roll --
http://www.audimutesoundproofing.com/ho ... ation.aspx
Thanks as always.
Anyone know anything about this?
Audimute
Peacemaker 3.2mm Sound Insulation Roll --
http://www.audimutesoundproofing.com/ho ... ation.aspx
Thanks as always.
Re: Sound, Sound, Sound
If you're getting contradictory information on the internet, it's because you're looking in the wrong place- my guess is at product manufacturer's websites. All advertisers will skew the facts in their favor. Remember that.
If you want to get some good reliable info, go to John Sayer's website on studio construction: http://www.johnlsayers.com. He has a great forum on there- one of the best if not the best on the net. Better to search and read before asking the common questions everyone asks. All your answers are there.
I could write a book myself on soundproofing with what I learned over the course of 2 years building my studio....but as far as blocking sound transmission, you need mass and structural decoupling to be effective.
Sound treatment(fiberglass, foam, etc.) only treats the inside of the room and may reduce overall db outside the room but not by much. And hardly at all with the low end, which matters the most.
Sound is vibration and vibration is sound. You need a lot of mass because the heavier the wall/barrier, the harder it will be to make the wall vibrate and produce sound. Also, the heavier a wall is, the lower the resonant frequency of that wall will be. Products like green glue are a popular addition to wall constructions because they also reduce vibration by absorbing it.
Structural decoupling reduces sympathetic and structural vibration, thus reducing sound emanating from the structure. That's why a room within a room is the best case scenario.
In my case, I converted a 1 car garage into a studio. First, I added 2 more layers of drywall to the existing garage walls, with green glue in between each layer. Total of 3. Then, I ripped up the old concrete slab and poured a new one, keeping it isolated from the existing garage walls with a 3 inch perimeter. I then built the room on this isolated slab. A true room-within-a-room. The walls were also constructed of 3 layers of drywall with green glue in between. I also had to deal with the garage door (essentially turned it into a wall) and built a second entrance door to the house, creating a sound lock.
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... f=2&t=9166
My solution worked, but cost about 25 grand, so...good luck!
If you want to get some good reliable info, go to John Sayer's website on studio construction: http://www.johnlsayers.com. He has a great forum on there- one of the best if not the best on the net. Better to search and read before asking the common questions everyone asks. All your answers are there.
I could write a book myself on soundproofing with what I learned over the course of 2 years building my studio....but as far as blocking sound transmission, you need mass and structural decoupling to be effective.
Sound treatment(fiberglass, foam, etc.) only treats the inside of the room and may reduce overall db outside the room but not by much. And hardly at all with the low end, which matters the most.
Sound is vibration and vibration is sound. You need a lot of mass because the heavier the wall/barrier, the harder it will be to make the wall vibrate and produce sound. Also, the heavier a wall is, the lower the resonant frequency of that wall will be. Products like green glue are a popular addition to wall constructions because they also reduce vibration by absorbing it.
Structural decoupling reduces sympathetic and structural vibration, thus reducing sound emanating from the structure. That's why a room within a room is the best case scenario.
In my case, I converted a 1 car garage into a studio. First, I added 2 more layers of drywall to the existing garage walls, with green glue in between each layer. Total of 3. Then, I ripped up the old concrete slab and poured a new one, keeping it isolated from the existing garage walls with a 3 inch perimeter. I then built the room on this isolated slab. A true room-within-a-room. The walls were also constructed of 3 layers of drywall with green glue in between. I also had to deal with the garage door (essentially turned it into a wall) and built a second entrance door to the house, creating a sound lock.
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... f=2&t=9166
My solution worked, but cost about 25 grand, so...good luck!
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Re: Sound, Sound, Sound
http://www.audimutesoundproofing.com/Im ... er2010.pdf
It appears as though it does reduce sound transmission,..
If you use a double layer of peacemaker by itself 3.2 mm you get an stc rating of 26 to 28
Which by the chart below is the same as a single pane of glass.. So not much by itself..
Check out the chart it gives you what you need to build construction wise to get what you are looking for
adding the peacemaker to it increases the rating ...
It appears as though it does reduce sound transmission,..
If you use a double layer of peacemaker by itself 3.2 mm you get an stc rating of 26 to 28
Which by the chart below is the same as a single pane of glass.. So not much by itself..
Check out the chart it gives you what you need to build construction wise to get what you are looking for
adding the peacemaker to it increases the rating ...
Re: Sound, Sound, Sound
Again, manufacturer websites provide information designed to sell their products. Be wary. Any company worth their salt will have their products independently lab tested by an unbiased third-party. It's expensive but can add a lot of credibiity. They know this. If this information is absent from their website, beware. Green glue company has done this and provides the information readily on their website.
There's a lot of misinformation in the business which adds to consumer confusion. They do their best to baffle you with BS so you just take them at their word. For instance, STC ratings do not tell the whole story. The STC rating is obtained by a test of many frequency ranges, but is primarily skewed in the mid-range/speech range- not the low end, which matters. As a guide, it can help or totally mislead.
I'm not saying that all soundproofing manufacturers are dishonest and misleading, I'm just saying that you should give a lot more weight to third-party independent lab-testing when you're talking about numbers and facts.
Of course, if you know someone personally who has used the products, and they helped them or were successful, then great...go for it.
That particular website has an article on 'soundproof drum room' where they suggest playing softer as a solution. That should tell you something. Duh.
Always consider the cost effectiveness of the product as well. Sure, it may be easier to throw something up on the walls, between the walls, etc. but building a simple staggered stud or double walled partition may be cheaper in the long run- instead of pissing money away here and there on products that don't work for your needs.
There's a lot of misinformation in the business which adds to consumer confusion. They do their best to baffle you with BS so you just take them at their word. For instance, STC ratings do not tell the whole story. The STC rating is obtained by a test of many frequency ranges, but is primarily skewed in the mid-range/speech range- not the low end, which matters. As a guide, it can help or totally mislead.
I'm not saying that all soundproofing manufacturers are dishonest and misleading, I'm just saying that you should give a lot more weight to third-party independent lab-testing when you're talking about numbers and facts.
Of course, if you know someone personally who has used the products, and they helped them or were successful, then great...go for it.
That particular website has an article on 'soundproof drum room' where they suggest playing softer as a solution. That should tell you something. Duh.
Always consider the cost effectiveness of the product as well. Sure, it may be easier to throw something up on the walls, between the walls, etc. but building a simple staggered stud or double walled partition may be cheaper in the long run- instead of pissing money away here and there on products that don't work for your needs.
Re: Sound, Sound, Sound
I ripped up the old concrete slab and poured a new one, keeping it isolated from the existing garage walls with a 3 inch perimeter
the entire concrete slab? that's a lot of work. why not just chip away 3 inches from the wall and call it a day. you add some type of sound mixture to the concrete? i just took up a concrete slab and it ain't fun. getting rid of it is even worse.
Re: Sound, Sound, Sound
Pad was sloped and had to be replaced to support a structure anyway (as seen in link). The whole project was a lot of work, but the end result was worth it.
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